A Tour of The Scottish Borders: Tracking Sir Walter Scott & the Border Ballads

The Scottish Borders, in the south of Scotland, rewards anyone willing to travel in the footsteps of literature. The landscape is gorgeous and the history rich, and the region is closely tied to Sir Walter Scott and the Border Ballads. If you have visited Edinburgh, you will have seen the Scott Monument towering over the other buildings as you stepped out of Waverley Station, which is itself named after one of his novels. This guide covers estates, valleys, lochs, graveyards, towns and places to eat. ## Sir Walter Scott and the Romantic Poets ### Abbotsford House Photographs of Abbotsford, Sir Walter Scott’s home, do not do it justice; it has to be experienced in person. Scott described the house as ‘rambling, whimsical and picturesque’, and it feels utterly unique. A fanatical historian, he took pieces from old buildings and anything else that caught his eye and incorporated them into the garden walls and even the walls of the house itself. He also hosted many famous authors and poets here, from Wordsworth to Dickens. The entrance hall, every inch of which is covered with armour, skulls and other memorable items, the library and the gardens are the highlights. If you are travelling by public transport, an Abbotsford bus runs directly from Tweedbank station. ### Scott’s View This is not just a beautiful view of the Eildon Hills: it was Sir Walter Scott’s favourite view, and he would have passed it on his way home. It is an easy stop on a drive between towns, and there are likely to be fine walks nearby if you want to take in the view at greater length. ### Smailholm Tower Smailholm Tower can be seen from miles away, which makes sense for a historic peel tower: the height was needed to spot the Border Reivers, groups of raiders, from a distance. There is also a wonderful audio exhibit where you can listen to some of the Border Ballads, local stories about battles and even fairy abductions. Sir Walter Scott spent part of his childhood in the house next to the tower, and this was his introduction to the Scottish Borders, where he would later end up living. ### Sir Walter Scott’s Courtroom In the town of Selkirk you will find Sir Walter Scott’s Courtroom, in a building dating from 1804. Scott was Sheriff of Selkirkshire and worked there until his death in 1832. It now houses a small exhibition that serves as a good introduction to his life. ## The Border Ballads in the Ettrick and Yarrow Valleys The Yarrow and Ettrick Valleys are about an hour by train south of Edinburgh and a 40-minute drive north of the border between Scotland and England. The landscape is breathtaking, with beautiful hills and fields and plenty of towns and routes to explore. There are numerous literary connections here. The area is also known for the Border Ballads: local stories about raids, adventures and supernatural events that were sung rather than written down, and were eventually documented by Sir Walter Scott. ### St Mary’s Loch St Mary’s Loch lies between Selkirk and Moffat and is the perfect place for a beautiful walk. A little further down the road you can visit Grey Mare’s Tail Nature Reserve and climb up to the waterfall, though that is one to save for another visit. Instead, climb up to St Mary’s Churchyard, overlooking St Mary’s Loch. As well as an amazing view, the churchyard is connected to the ballad of ‘The Douglas Tragedy’, about two lovers who may have been buried here after an elopement in which her lover kills her father and seven brothers and then dies himself. The more remote Cockburn’s Grave is also worth visiting; it is related to the ballad of the Border Widow’s Lament, and the surrounding ferns grow waist-high. If you are heading to this area, read up on some of the related ballads beforehand, as they will add a great deal to your visit. ### The Romantic Poets’ Hangout Tibbie Shiel’s Inn, named after the woman who used to run it, was a hotspot for literary figures of the time. William Wordsworth, Robert Louis Stevenson, Sir Walter Scott and James Hogg all visited, and it is easy to see how the views would have inspired them. The inn has recently been refurbished and features portraits of its famous guests, and you can camp on the grounds. Across the road is a statue of James Hogg, overlooking the loch. ### Visit James Hogg’s Grave James Hogg, the poet and author of the Gothic novel The Private Memoirs and Confessions of a Justified Sinner, is buried in the Ettrick Valley, where he grew up and worked as a shepherd. If you are a fan of the Gothic and are driving around the area, the atmospheric Ettrick churchyard is well worth visiting, especially in the rain. Look out for the harp detail at the top of Hogg’s gravestone. Close to the graveyard you will also find a James Hogg Exhibition, housed in the former village school next door to Ettrickhall, where he was born in 1770. ### Lunch where Hogg and Scott met for the last time The Gordon Arms is an old historic coaching inn nestled in the Yarrow Valley. James Hogg and Sir Walter Scott met in the valley for the first time and became lifelong friends. Hogg’s mother was also the source for a great many of the Border Ballads that Scott later wrote down. The Gordon Arms is where Hogg and Scott met and parted ways for the very last time, and there are mementos relating to the authors in the newly renovated inn. The kitchen uses fresh local ingredients, and it is a must-visit after a walk by St Mary’s Loch. ### Drive through the Valleys The Ettrick and Yarrow Valleys offer stunning views, often with no one else in sight. The route from Gordon Arms to Crosslee to Hawick is a good one, but any of the smaller roads between Moffat, Selkirk, Hawick and Crosslee will do the trick. ## Towns and Other Places to Visit Beyond the major literary locations, there are plenty more places to add to an itinerary. ### Mainstreet Trading Company, St Boswells This independent bookshop, which is also a deli, home shop and cafe, has won a great many awards, including Independent Bookshop of the Year, Children’s Bookseller of the Year and Scottish Independent Bookshop of the Year. It is a stunning space in St Boswells, and the sandwiches in the cafe are delicious. They also host a range of excellent events, so if you are heading in that direction it is worth checking the schedule beforehand so you do not miss out on tickets. ### Kelso, Floors Castle and Schloss Roxburghe Kelso is home to Floors Castle, which can be reached on foot from the town. After exploring the historic town centre, take a walk by the river Tweed. Just outside Kelso you will also find the impressive Schloss Roxburghe, which has stunning rooms, illustrated wallpaper and comfortable, welcoming surroundings. You can stay there, and dinner might include a fresh, largely vegetable-based vegetarian meal accompanied by a local gin. ### Selkirk and The Haining Selkirk has a wealth of wonderful shops, from a gin tasting at Selkirk Distillers to an art shop, and of course a bookshop, The Forest Bookstore. Selkirk is also home to the Sir Walter Scott’s Courthouse museum. The Haining is a country house that was left to the people of Selkirkshire. Locals often walk by the Haining Loch, and it is a fine place for a stroll in the rain. ### Galashiels and the Great Tapestry of Scotland The Great Tapestry of Scotland, based in Galashiels, is not to be missed. It depicts 420 million years of Scottish history and was created by 1,000 stitchers from all across Scotland, with countless stories to discover. Allow a good few hours to take in all the details. It was an extraordinary collaborative effort, and the stitchers were given considerable freedom to add personal and local touches, which the guides will be happy to help you find. ### Melrose Abbey and the Trimontium Museum Melrose is a lovely, picturesque town, and you will spot the Abbey ruins immediately as you drive through. The gardens next door are worth a look for their wildflowers. You can also visit the Trimontium Museum, which covers the Trimontium Roman fort just east of Melrose. It was the largest Roman fort north of Hadrian’s Wall, and a visit here will leave you keen to seek out Roman fort remains elsewhere. For lunch, Burts Hotel serves meals made with fresh local ingredients, almost next door to the Trimontium Museum, and has rooms if you are looking to stay in Melrose. ## How to Get There and Where to Stay ### Travelling by public transport Galashiels is a wonderful place to start, and can be reached from Edinburgh by train in about an hour heading south. From there you can use buses and the occasional taxi, preferably pre-booked, to reach more remote locations. Galashiels via Tweedbank to Melrose is 25 minutes by bus, and Galashiels to Selkirk is 20 minutes. Buses run from once an hour to every half hour until the early evening, but check timetables for special days and Sundays. For more remote places such as St Mary’s Loch you may need a car, or you can take a taxi to local accommodation and stay in that area for the day. ### Where to stay Whitehouse Countryhouse B&B, Melrose. A warm welcome, a vegan cooked breakfast and some lovely dogs to befriend. The view onto the fields is unbeatable, and Smailholm Tower can be spotted from the driveway on a short walk. The room has plenty of character. Branxholme Castle, Hawick. If a castle with a generous sprinkle of luxury is your style, stay at Branxholme Castle near Hawick, pronounced Hoik. The rooms are spacious, the breakfast can be cooked vegan, and the decorations are literary-themed, including a poem about a ghost that may or may not haunt the hallways. There is also a holiday cottage and a coffee shop, and you can get married here. Nearby in Hawick, The Night Safe has lovely vegetarian and vegan options, including truffle fries and a chocolate dessert worth dreaming about. Abbotsford. The Hope Scott Wing at Abbotsford can be rented out by groups of up to 16 people, and the atmosphere and decor are breathtaking. You also have access to the grounds after hours. A writers’ retreat, anyone? The Haining, Selkirk. You can stay in some of the cottages on the grounds of this beautiful country house, which has its own loch. There are several options available on Airbnb. Imagine a misty morning walk by the loch. With a little planning, the Scottish Borders offers an unforgettable literary tour.