My Dublin City Guide

Dublin rewards a wander. It’s a city that wears its literary history lightly, mixing grand Georgian architecture with small, independent shops and a food scene that has grown well beyond the stereotype of stew and stout. Whether you’re visiting for a weekend or using it as a base for exploring further afield, here are some places worth seeking out. ## Culture and books The Book of Kells and the Library of Trinity College The Long Room at Trinity College is the kind of place book lovers dream about moving into. A few hours wandering among the shelves will have to do instead. The Book of Kells is also housed here, described as Ireland’s greatest cultural treasure and the world’s most famous medieval manuscript. Queues can be long, so aim for a quieter time of day if you can. Oscar Wilde Statue If you find yourself near Merrion Square Park, stop by the statue of Irish poet and playwright Oscar Wilde. It’s a striking tribute in a pleasant setting. The Winding Stair Bookshop Dublin has no shortage of bookshops, but this one, looking out over the river, is a favourite. It’s small, with a well-chosen selection, a writing desk in the window, and a lovely display of hanging books. The Hugh Lane Gallery For museum lovers, the Hugh Lane Gallery is the one to prioritise. The building itself is beautiful, the collection covers several much-loved genres of painting, and the gallery has a fascinating history worth discovering for yourself. A selection of impressionist works rotates between the Hugh Lane and the National Gallery in London, so there’s a good chance of catching a favourite piece in Dublin. The Library Project If magazines, zines and arty finds are your thing, The Library Project is the place to browse. ## Shops and browsing Powerscourt Centre This Georgian building is filled with arty and higher-end shops, and it’s worth a wander even if you’re not buying. Try the bagels at The Pepper Pot cafe, visit This is Knit if you’re a crafter, or pick up homeware gifts at Article. ## Where to eat Meet Me in the Morning If you only make it to one place on this list, make it this one. The menu looks a little unusual at first glance, but the breakfast is hearty, colourful and made with excellent ingredients. The dishes photograph well too. The sourdough is on the chewy side, but the breakfast plates themselves are superb. Cornucopia A Dublin institution for vegan and vegetarian food. It has a hippie feel, you order at the counter, and the portions are generous with plenty of flavour. Put the vegan potato salad at the top of your list, along with the daily soup and its excellent bread. Brother Hubbard With locations on both the north and south sides of the city and plenty of tables, this is a solid brunch spot. The food is Turkish-inspired, with a good range of vegan options. Ideal if you want something tasty but casual. Donuts Dublin’s food obsession seems to have moved from milkshakes to donuts, and there’s a shop on seemingly every corner. The Rolling Donut is the pick of the bunch, with plenty of vegan options. One branch sits just a few doors from the Winding Stair Bookshop, making for an easy combined trip. The Music Cafe Ireland can be rainy, and on one of the wettest days in Dublin, The Music Cafe proved a welcome refuge. It’s a cute spot with a wide range of loose-leaf teas, plenty of baked goods and other food, a lovely view of the river, and excellent people-watching. ## Photo spots Art Nouveau wall art Head to Cope Street, close to Temple Bar, for striking wall murals depicting characters from James Joyce’s Ulysses. The coloured doors of Dublin These are scattered all around the city and make for a classic Dublin photograph. The umbrellas A colourful canopy of umbrellas hangs outside Zozimus Bar. The story behind them is unclear, but they look great. Temple Bar No trip to Dublin is complete without a walk through the Temple Bar area. Whether or not you stop for drinks, it’s worth seeing. ## Still on the list A few places worth noting for a return visit: - National Botanic Gardens — a must for anyone who loves botanical gardens, though a little out of the way from the usual central areas. - Phoenix Park — it has deer and it’s enormous. That’s reason enough. - Kilmainham Gaol Museum — prison museums in Philadelphia and Belfast have both proved fascinating and taught a great deal about their cities. This one comes highly recommended by several people. - Speakeasy bars — Dublin apparently has a fine selection, worth seeking out next time. - Grantham’s on Grantham Street — another brunch option that looks lovely, with good coffee and pancakes. ## Day trips from Dublin Glendalough A day trip to Glendalough is one of the best memories of a first trip to Dublin. If you don’t drive, the bus makes it easy to escape the city for an afternoon walking around the lake. Bring sandwiches for the full picnic experience. Dún Laoghaire and Howth For a taste of the seaside, both Dún Laoghaire and Howth are lovely. Walk down the stone pier, feel the sea breeze and have an ice cream. Both are a short DART ride from the city centre. These suggestions should keep you busy whether you’re in Dublin for a day or a week.